Many travelers expect the good life in the bushveld. (Early morning game drives are a lot more fun with heated seats and Amarula-spiked coffee, okay?) And that’s unlikely to change. According to safari expert Go2Africa’s annual report, the average amount of money consumers are willing to spend on safari has risen by 25 percent, a surge from previous years.

Still, the most exciting lodges these days are about so much more than opulent accommodations. Increasingly, guests are also looking for environmentally and socially ethical experiences, an industry-wide development that’s been amplified by the post-pandemic vacation boom, says The Economist. In Africa specifically, interest in sustainable safaris grew by 1,000 percent over the last four years.

Now, lodges are rising to the challenge with authentic farm-to-table meals, contemporary low-touch architecture, and meaningful, hands-on activities that directly connect guests with nature, from tracking lions on foot to tagging a rhino from a helicopter. Nowhere is this movement clearer than in South Africa, which boasts some of the top conservation-focused, immersive and elite properties on the continent.

One of the country’s most ambitious private nature reserves also happens to be its largest. Encompassing 282,000 acres, Tswalu lies on the edge of the southern Kalahari, a biodiverse and fragile ecosystem known for erratic rainfall and extreme temperatures. Set on more than 50 prior farms, the wilderness area was acquired in 1999 by the Oppenheimer family (formerly of De Beers) who have diligently managed the overgrazed and ecologically degraded land and repopulated it with indigenous plants and animals.

An ongoing project, the work at Tswalu is paying off. Elusive species that have haunted avid safari-goers’ wish lists for decades, such as pangolin and aardvark, can be found in relative abundance, while endangered desert black rhino and white rhino populations have quadrupled since they were reintroduced 15 years ago. A safari among the Kalahari’s sea of rust red sand, dotted with hardy acacia, is truly like no other.

Guests choose their own adventure, thanks to the most invaluable of luxuries, freedom and privacy. All bookings include a guaranteed exclusive vehicle, guide and tracker, while a maximum of 40 guests across the reserve’s three camps comfortably ranks as the lowest ratio of beds to space in South Africa. Should you have a hard time picking where to stay, opt for the new Loapi. There, each of the six modular, eco-friendly suites functions as a standalone home with a dedicated house manager and chef.

While many safaris tend to fall into the daily rhythm of game drives, Tswalu provides ample opportunity to deviate from the expected. Indulge in a multi-course dinner of foraged, local ingredients like gemsbok cucumbers and Makataan watermelons at Restaurant Klein JAN, led by South African-born, Michelin-star chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen, or participate in a private rhino ear-notching, which directly contributes to the conservation of the critically at-risk species. Many guests shadow one of the researchers working with the Tswalu Foundation to learn first-hand about other animals like cheetah and wild dog from experts at the forefront of environmental research.

“There’s great value in meeting our team in the field,” says Dylan Smith, head of the Tswalu Foundation’s Dedeben Research Centre. “I’ve always believed that people shouldn’t just [go on safari] to have a wonderful time and see some cool animals. You want people to leave the reserve with more of an understanding of the challenges facing the planet and that you can make a difference for the better.”

For a more traditional safari filled with ambling herds of elephant, head across the country to the remote southeastern section of Kruger National Park. There, you’ll find the first South African brand to merge high-value, low-impact tourism with conservation: Singita. After opening its first property, Singita Ebony Lodge, in Sabi Sand Nature Reserve, the visionary company earned a concession in Kruger all to itself in 2001, in part due to a famously steadfast commitment to environmentally conscious hospitality.

The mountainous 33,000 acres, which run along the Mozambique border, are said to have some of the highest concentrations of the Big 5 (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo) in the entire park. They are also among the most naturally stunning, with dramatic rock formations and heart-stirring views from the Poort, a towering vantage point and popular sundowner spot that overlooks a section of the N’wanetsi River where it splits a gorge. Nearby, the sustainable, loft-style suites at Singita Lebombo, one of the concession’s two lodges, sit perched above the riverbank on a cliff face, a testament to the brand’s ethos of “touching the earth lightly.” Along with its sister property Singita Sweni, Lebombo received the inaugural Flor de Caña Eco Hotel Award for outstanding efforts towards sustainability from The World’s 50 Best Hotels in 2023.

Singita Kruger’s pristine grasslands and forests beg exploration—and for the adventurous—safari walks. Escorted by Africa’s most accomplished trackers and guides, guests can trail white rhino and the formidable Shishangaan pride, currently thriving at 17 lions. Following these incredible animals on foot isn’t just a thrill or a chance for bragging rights; it’s a cherished opportunity to discover the indigenous art of tracking, an ancient skill passed from generation to generation.

None of this would exist without the dedication of Singita’s South African non-profit partner, the Singita Lowveld Trust, which safeguards the reserves and builds partnerships with neighboring communities to ensure that they share in the benefits of tourism and conservation. While staying at Singita Lebombo or Sweni, guests may take a cooking lesson at the Singita Community Culinary School, which trains local students and helps place them in a professional kitchen.

“You really can travel with purpose,” says Inge Kotze, Singita’s general manager of conservation. “With collaboration and support, this type of ecotourism model ensures that these areas continue to be protected, and that other areas can be restored. It’s a fabulous way to give back through travel.”

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Experience Ancient Culture, Luxury and Serenity at this Himalayan Haven.

As I stroll across the courtyard of Cheri Monastery, a Buddhist sanctuary perched on the outskirts of Bhutan’s Thimphu Valley, I inhale freshly lit incense and stop to admire hand-painted murals—a riot of color, symbolism and spiritual storytelling. My guide, Namgay Tshering of Himalayan Foothills Travel, leads me up a wooden ladder into the inner temple, where a smiling, robed monk pours blessed water or trüchu, bright yellow from saffron, into my expectant hands. Cupping my palms to my mouth, I take a sip to cleanse myself of all negative thoughts, emotions and actions.

Then it hits me: Silence. We have this ancient place, the first monastery founded by Ngawang Namgyal, known as The Bearded Lama and the unifier of Bhutan as a nation-state, all to ourselves.

In an increasingly globalized world where many destinations struggle to combat growing crowds—UNESCO recently recommended that Venice’s world heritage site status be listed as “in danger” due to mass tourism—the Land of the Thunder Dragon maintains an authenticity and blissful remoteness that’s all too rare. Sometimes called the last Shangri-La because of its unspoiled natural beauty and unique culture, Bhutan belongs to an exclusive club of carbon negative countries and stands alone as the last remaining Vajrayana (Tantric) Buddhist kingdom, a school closely related to Tibetan Buddhism.

For many years, going to Bhutan proved as challenging as slipping onto the Paro Airport runway, sandwiched in a narrow valley between 16,000 foot mountains. The 45-degree landing may still be tough, but luckily for intrepid travelers, the immigration process has become considerably easier. While international tourists are required to pay a mandatory levy, the fee, which offsets visitors’ carbon footprint and contributes to Bhutan’s Sustainable Development Fund, was slashed by fifty percent to $100 per person per night until 2027. Travelers also no longer have to prebook entire itineraries with a minimum daily spend in order to get a visa, although hiring a guide is highly recommended.

These rules aren’t about keeping tourists out. Bhutan—known for its philosophy of Gross National Happiness—warmly welcomes responsible guests who invest time, thought, and yes, money, into their trips. Guided by a “high value, low volume,” policy, Bhutan carefully protects its culture, infrastructure and pristine natural resources, while ensuring that travelers enjoy an exceptional—and authentic—experience. Because of this, Bhutan has emerged as a luxe hotspot full of ancient, meditative temples, rich arts and crafts, some of the world’s best hiking, diverse wildlife and once-in-a-lifetime opportunities to receive blessings from lamas and monks. And then there are the hotels.

In the Land of the Thunder Dragon, luxury standards are set as high as the Himalayas themselves. One of the few international brands allowed inside the country’s tight borders: Aman Resorts. Aman’s founder, Adrian Zecha, has been visiting Bhutan since it first allowed tourists in the 1970s. When Amankora Paro opened in 2004, it became the country’s only international hotel, followed by Como and Six Senses a few years later. Today, the tiny kingdom—which is slightly smaller than Switzerland and has an estimated population of less than 800,000 people—offers a robust choice of more than 20 top properties, including five Aman lodges along Bhutan’s tourism circuit of lush valleys, known as the kora, the Dzongkha word for pilgrimage.

I begin my own journey at Amankora Thimphu, a 16-suite lodge designed by the renowned architect Kerry Hill in the style of a dzong fortress. Located within easy reach of the bustling capital’s shops and sights, I spend my days exploring Thimphu and its surrounds, watching a spirited archery competition at Changlimithang Stadium and dining on brutally spicy ema datshi (chili peppers and cheese) and momos (filled dumplings) at Phangu, a stylish restaurant owned by Bleu Dorji, a chef of noble ancestry. Each evening, Amankora Thimphu brings Bhutan’s culture right to my doorstep, surprising me with a private lecture with a Buddhist monk and a performance of the country’s joyful traditional dances—typically only seen at Bhutan’s famous festivals—by the spectacular Gaki Luyang ensemble.

In this way, Bhutan’s luxury properties are similar to the lodges and camps you find across Africa. Far more than a place to lay your head at night, they become the de facto curators of your trip, feeding you (many bookings are all-inclusive), sending you off to the spa post-hike, and immersing you in the country’s heritage 24/7.

After a couple days in Thimphu, Namgay and I head on to Gangtey Valley, an area best known for the black-necked cranes that fly there from the Tibetan Plateau every fall. An important part of Bhutanese folklore, these graceful, rare birds—which some believe are the reincarnated souls of deceased lamas—purportedly bring a successful harvest to the region’s farmers.

My hotel, Gangtey Lodge, overlooks the valley the cranes have just left for their return migration; I’m not too disappointed, as you’d be hard-pressed to imagine a more beautiful spot to do absolutely nothing. I cozy up by the stone fireplace with a mug of butter tea, a local specialty, and gaze out at the mountains covered in a sea of scarlet rhododendrons. It’s time for the most grueling part of my day: a Bhutanese hot stone bath. Using medicinal herbs and river stones that have been roasted over a fire until they are bright red, this therapeutic treatment relieves deep aches and pains. Fortunately, Gangtey Lodge thoughtfully provides guests with everything you might need during a steamy soak, including iced tea, cookies, a cold compress and a post-bath massage just to make absolutely sure you’re extra relaxed.

The next morning, we drive back toward Paro, stopping along the way to search for some of Bhutan’s prolific birdlife—including the kaleidoscopic Himalayan monal and yellow-rumped honeyguide. Isolated and densely forested, Bhutan is quickly becoming one of the world’s top birding destinations thanks to its incredible biodiversity. The mountains are also home to enigmatic species like snow leopards, red pandas and Indian rhinos, but those typically prove much more challenging to locate. Rumor has it more robust safari offerings are on the way.

When we reach my final lodge, COMO Uma Paro, I’m famished and ready for a hearty meal at the hotel’s award-winning restaurant, Bukhari, a favorite of the Bhutanese Royal Family. While the property’s main building was, appropriately enough, once the home of a nobleman, I’m staying in one of the newer free-standing villas, which come with butler service and a panoramic view of Paro. The resort’s chic bar, decked out in red leather, is the perfect spot for a night cap of K5 Himalayan Whisky, the first whisky blended and bottled in Bhutan.

As my trip winds down, it’s time to check off my last bucket list items: Visit the iconic Tiger’s Nest Monastery teetering on the edge of a cliff in Paro Valley. Shop for precious dzi beads and antique wooden ceremonial masks in town. Stop by Kyichu Lhakhang, one of the most sacred and oldest Buddhist temples in the Himalayas, with roots dating back to the 7th century. It’s there, shaded by a fragrant orange tree, that I’m once again alone, unbothered by crowds. This time it is not silent; I can hear monks chanting, in a soft monotone, from the inside. Travel has never felt like more of a gift.

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Sunset at Cheetah Plains Safari

Murky green water ripples as two fluttering ears emerge from the depths. It’s the tell-tale sign of a hippo; the animal’s enormity—and ferocity—hidden beneath the surface. On the nearby shore, two crocodiles chase each other with a splash, their intentions as murky as the waterhole itself. Within half an hour, they’re replaced by a herd of passing elephants. Each family member gingerly reaches for a drink, while the calves are less graceful, spraying water with their trunks like unruly toddlers playing with their food.

The best part? I haven’t even left the lodge yet. I’m staying at Cheetah Plains—one of South Africa’s most exclusive safari experiences—located inside Sabi Sand Nature Reserve. The oldest private concession in the country, The Sands offers best-in-class game viewing, minus the crowds of its better-known and busier public neighbor Kruger National Park. (The two share a 31 mile unfenced border; it turns out free-roaming lions and rhinos can’t tell the difference). In Sabi Sand Nature Reserve, sightings are capped at three vehicles, and guides have permission to drive off-road in order to track animals, affording travelers rare, up-close encounters.

Cheetah Plains takes this intimacy to another level, immersing guests directly in the business of the bushveld. Their Mapogo Villa, named after a famously powerful coalition of lions that once reigned supreme in the region, provides a unique vantage point over the dam, which serves as a lifesource for animals with a near constant hum of activity. Here, I drink an espresso—with a dash of Amarula, perhaps—next to the bubbling hippos before jumping into an electric Land Cruiser for our morning drive. A pioneer of the silent safari, Cheetah Plains’ unobtrusive electric vehicles—some of the first on the continent—make it easier to approach animals. The lodge is also carbon negative, thanks to its use of solar power, water to waste management, and recycling initiatives.

In addition to its celebrated wildlife, Sabi Sand has earned a prestigious reputation as the destination with the country’s most luxurious safari lodges and camps; think of it like the Fisher Island of South African safaris. With a private airstrip here and an infinity pool there, each property is more spectacular than the next. The idea of “roughing it” in a tent seems as far away as home.

Among Sabi Sand’s most discreet and sophisticated hideaways, Cheetah Plains exists in a bubble all its own. Accommodations consist of three self-contained villas, each boasting four suites alongside an expansive main house with a formal lounge, living and dining room area, swimming pool deck, entertainment lounge, wine gallery and boma for braai dinners under the stars. Because each villa can welcome a maximum of eight guests, they’re perfect for a family vacation or group of friends. (Unlike many lodges, Cheetah Plains has no minimum age requirement for little ones).

A welcome departure from traditional safari decor, the main house and suites are refreshingly modern, decked out in tech-forward touches like mosquito nets that close with the push of a button and iPhones that are preloaded with staff contact numbers and nature-themed apps. The indulgent bathroom, equipped with two rainfall showers and perhaps the deepest tub I’ve ever soaked in, sits in front of floor-to-ceiling glass windows. If you’re lucky, perhaps an impala or another wild resident will join you, nonchalantly grazing outside while you enjoy the feeling of bathing en plein air. Enchanted by the sights and sounds of the bush, I made a habit of leaving my blackout shades open during the night so I could wake up to greet my new friends.

You’re likely to spend much of your time in the spectacular main house, where the view is even grander, looking out over a grove of cathedral Tamboti trees or, in my case, in Mapogo’s infinity pool: a front row seat at the buzzing waterhole. Contemporary paintings, photography, and sculptures from emerging and established South African artists, such as William Kentridge, Loyiso Mkize, and Walter Oltmann, lend the space a sense of local culture and vibrancy. Many of the works, which are available for purchase, are curated by the renowned Goodman Gallery, which has represented African artists whose work have inspired social change since 1966.

Of course, each villa doesn’t come empty. What truly makes it special—and what you will remember most when you leave—is the dedicated hospitality team consisting of a host, private chef, sommelier, spa therapist and butler, as well as an expert field guide and tracker. These are the people who lovingly transform Cheetah Plains from a chic bushveld hideaway into the sanctuary of your dreams. Staying there is akin to fantasizing you own a house in South Africa; every creature comfort is catered to. Do you prefer a six-course fine dining menu with ostrich and filet or stone-oven pizza for dinner? Either is fine—make yourself at home.

Bushwalks end in restorative massages and lazy afternoons become even lazier thanks to expert-led wine tastings. Cheetah Plains’ remarkable cellar possesses an impressive range of South African wines from vineyards such as Paul Clüver, Allesverloren and Mullineux & Leeu, many of which are limited editions. At the onsite Shari’s Boutique, guests can even schedule a personalized consultation with a qualified gemologist and jewelry maker to create a one-of-a-kind piece with ethically-sourced loose diamonds. A percentage of the proceeds from every diamond sale is donated to the local Lezagwa Utah Community Crèche, a Cheetah Plains-sponsored facility that cares for over 60 children from the nearby communities.

The advantage of experiencing safari on my own terms soon became obvious to me in the field, where the guiding team empowered our group to choose our own adventure on each outing. I was never disappointed with the outcome. One morning, our masterful tracker Victor—who has spent his entire life connecting with nature—delivers the near impossible baby rhino sighting I had (half-jokingly) requested. Later that evening, we decide to forgo a formal sundowner in favor of chasing down a leopard. We soon find our prize. To our delight, it’s a beautiful eight-month-old cub, lapping up water from a puddle—a fair trade for a gin and tonic.

On our final night, seated around the warmth of the boma beneath twinkling lights, we savor an opulent South African braai to the sound of whooping hyenas. We fill our plates with grilled beef sausage, garlic bread, chakalaka (a spicy tomato bean relish), BBQ chicken, cheesy pap and potato salad. Malva pudding is for dessert, but one of us has a sweet tooth and a personal request: s’mores. They’re the best I’ve had since grade school. This is safari, our way.

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At first, we barely notice it. Curled up against a tree trunk and as thick as a grown man’s leg, an anaconda peacefully snoozes as our small tour group tiptoes past its grassy bed. We keep our eyes trained on the ground for the rest of our hike through the Peruvian Amazon—admittedly more out of apprehension than any sense of courtesy to napping reptiles—spotting colorful parrots, gargantuan lily pads and cuddly sloths along the way. Almost as soon as we return to the waiting skiff, we make another key sighting: the yacht’s bartender motoring toward us, pisco sours in hand. It’s time for an al fresco sundowner. Few destinations capture our imagination like the Amazon rainforest, and nature walks there won’t disappoint anyone whose spirit calls them to the wilder corners of the planet. Scientists believe that its vast wilderness, that spans across eight different countries and is teeming with life, is home to 10 percent of the known species on Earth. But traveling to the Amazon has historically never been an easy feat—particularly for people whose idea of a vacation doesn’t include modest bungalows with mosquito netting and no AC. In the middle of a jungle that’s twice the size of India, finding a bottle of Bordeaux can often prove trickier than tracking down an elusive panther.

Now, that’s all starting to change. The world’s largest tropical rainforest is attracting the luxury crowd, thanks to a growing number of exclusive river cruises such as The Delfin III and Zafiro. The newest and most spectacular of the bunch: Aqua Expeditions‘ Aqua Nera, a 20-suite super yacht that boasts an infinity pool, massage therapist, 1:1 crew-to-passenger ratio and cuisine by Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, the award-winning Peruvian chef behind Malabar and Ámaz who is celebrated for introducing native Amazonian produce to Lima’s top restaurants. Based out of Iquitos, the gateway to the northern Amazon, the Aqua Nera and its sister yacht, the Aria Amazon, cruise for three-, four- and seven-night itineraries throughout the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve, a renowned biodiversity hotspot that’s twice the size of Yellowstone, in search of fascinating wildlife.

“Aqua Expeditions offers expeditions that are part of the experiential travel niche operating in the same sphere as African safaris and voyages to Antarctica,” says Francesco Galli Zugaro, CEO and founder. “Our passengers want to see remote parts of the world, go on active adventures during the day, and come back to a floating base camp that is on par with any world-class hotel.”

Boarding Aqua Nera for my three-night cruise this past fall, I certainly felt like I was checking into an intimate five-star property—or perhaps a movie star’s massive yacht. Inspired by the black water lagoons and tributaries of the Amazon River, each generously-sized room features sleek design and luxurious touches such as dark-stained wood floors, California king beds, custom-made stone sinks and walk-in rain showers. Floor-to-ceiling picture windows, complete with a set of cozy daybeds, offer the ideal perch to watch the world literally float by—and in the Amazon, you never know what might drift past you. One afternoon, while I was gazing into the distance and coming down from the high of a deep tissue massage, a pod of endangered pink river dolphins—the subject of many South American legends—began jumping and splashing in the current.

With so few people on board (each cabin holds a maximum of two people) it was tempting to fantasize that I had the whole place to myself. When I wasn’t on an excursion, I could duck into the screening room to watch a movie or take over the billiards room for a game of pool. While some passengers opted to spend time in the river-facing gym, I enjoyed the lush panoramic views from the outdoor plunge pool. The lounge, decorated with locally-sourced fabrics and handicrafts, served some of the best cocktails I had in Peru, including a tropical pisco punch mixed with lemon juice and fresh pineapple syrup.

All too often, cruises shortchange their food programs for generic menus, but Aqua Nera takes passengers on a gastronomic journey of the rainforest’s most unique flavors. It’s led by Schiaffino, a Peruvian culinary icon and conservationist, and 70 percent of the ingredients he uses onboard are sourced within the Amazon. Expect grilled paiche, a colossal (and delicious) freshwater fish with surprisingly mild, sweet flesh; gnocchi made from plantains and yucca, and heart of palm soufflé. Occasionally, we even helped source the products ourselves: On one outing, we learned how to catch piranhas with no more than a branch, string, and chunk of raw beef.

That was just one of many unforgettable adventures. Each morning and afternoon, Aqua Nera’s passionate naturalists led us on one of the ship’s three skiffs to meet the inhabitants of remote villages, scan the tree line for motionless sloths, swim with pool noodles in the Amazon’s pure dark waters and shine flashlights in search of the tell-tale glow of a caiman’s eyes at sunset. There were plenty of indulgent surprises, too. One day, our guide, Alex, had the chef and his team meet us for breakfast in the middle of the river. As they pulled up alongside us, handing over individual picnic baskets stuffed with homemade pastries, granola and sandwiches, and pouring mimosas into our stemware, I struggled to think of any restaurant in the world with a more dramatic—or exclusive—setting. Aside from the chatter of nearby horned screamers and yellow-headed caracara, we were enveloped in perfect solitude. And isn’t that the most luxurious thing of all?

Aquaexpeditions.com

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